Sensations

Day 9 - Thursday, 3 October 2024 - Estaing to Espeyrac. 25.6 klms; total ~201.9 klms

We've averaged a little over 22klms/day so far for 9 days, and by and large the legs, though tired, are getting stronger.

I reflected today that I think this is a more physically demanding walk than the Camino Frances. I don't know that to be true (and how does one measure that anyway?) but my sense is that it is. Apart from the last stages in Galicia, with only a couple of exceptions the terrain on the Frances is flat/undulating. Here it feels to me more like trekking in Nepal; an endless series of ups and downs (minus the altitude of course). And my comparative frame of reference is 9 years old too.

I think that the VDLP is more demanding overall, but for different reasons. The length, isolation and the weather extremes give it the top "demand" billing, but arguably for different reasons.

That aside, it really is a beautiful and interesting walk. Today’s photos (relatively few) will follow shortly but first a couple of comments.

My posts to date have mostly focussed on what the eye can see. The other senses have been well and truly relegated. So in this order:

• the sense of smell is ever alive. The prevailing and largely ever-present smell is that of the cow poo and the associated farm smells. I quite like it; it has a healthy earthiness which reminds me of country life. This is equally backed up by the just as earthy forest smells - slow rotting vegetation all around

• sound comes next. The rustling sound of the wind in the trees, or the tinkling of the many small streams and occasional bigger rivers. And the sound of silence in the middle of the forest, interrupted only by the rhythmic footsteps of my travelling companions. Surprisingly there's very little bird sound (apart from the occasional honking guard geese), punctuated by periodic dog barking in the distance

• taste might surprise you. The wide variety of French cheeses and the buttery taste of the freshly baked croissants

• And lastly touch. Predominantly the grip on my walking poles, without which I suspect I would have ended up on my tail or my side a few times. And of course the touch of the icy winds or the driving rains.

We walked with Heidi the neurologist and Martin the architect/businessman from Stuttgart for some time today. Very nice folk to chat to. One of the benefits of these walks is that one touches a total stranger for an hour or so, explores elements of both them and you, and then separates likely to never see them again, but better off for the exchange.

Here's a selection of photos from the day, some with a bit of commentary.

Ancient ...

Curious

Whopper worm

Even more ancient ...

Contemplation viewpoint

How long?

Bill and Ben??

Entering Espeyrac.

From the gite window.

Beasts at the shop ...

Around Espeyrac.

Fabulous meal prepared by hostess Isabelle, who wears two hats of shop owner/manager and gite manager/cook.

Tomorrow IS an easy day - 12.3 klms. We have to be out of here by 9am, and can't check in until 3pm, so that gives us plenty of time to wander and explore Conques. Until then ...