Monsters and Beasts

Day 3 - Friday, 27 September 2024 - Saugues to Lajo. 26.3 klms (ish).

The area of Saugues, where we stayed last night, appears to have a fascinating monster story/mythology/history. I get the impression that thare is some truth to the story, which you can read about here. I suspect that these days it's a story which brings commercial benefit to the community, not that there's anything wrong with that. The next stage in the story can be found here - I didn't realise when we walked into town yesterday and saw the various carvings, some of which I popped onto yesterday's post, that there was a connection. These interconnected elements added some real character to the town and district.

At the nearby little village of Chanaleilles there's a particularly graphic display. The photo below is accompanied with the following text:

A ferocious beast (1764/1767)

In June 1764 the Beast claimed its first victim near Langogne. Having devoured or injured around 10 people people it migrated to our region of Haute-Margeride in October. It continued its murderous journey for three long years and claimed a hundred victims in this area before being shot down in June 1767.

But there was also another beast at play yesterday - let's call him the weather wolf. He whipped up a freezing wind all day, brought two heavy rainstorms on us (an hour or so in length each, quite sufficient to fully soak the boots), and in Trish's case two doses of hail. In case, dear reader, you might think that I am tending towards hyperbole, let me report that dawn at Lajo (overnight stop) the temperature was -1°.

Add to that that it was some 8 hours on the road. By mid afternoon I'd decided that this wasn't fun and that I'd bail on the rest of the trip (which hasn't/probably won't happen, but is a good measure of state of mind). That grumble aside, the day had some highlights.

Leaving Saugues

Donativo shell stall

I've been intrigued by the endless array of champignons in the forests, fields and beside the path. Here's just a few:

And below, in and around the forests:

We had a lovely brief encounter at the tiny village of Grezes. I'd diverted to take a photo of the tower, and shortly after stopped at a picnic bench for a break. Opposite was an old stone refuge (which we didn't realise), and in it three people keeping warm. Two young women (Serena and Minon) invited us and prepared us a warm coffee. Serena had studied in Townsville some years back - we had a lovely long chat (no photos); a bright spot in a hard day.

Our last stop of note was the Chapelle San Roch, see photo below.

San Roch is a significant figure here in France and elsewhere in Europe.

By this stage we were walking with Maelle (more of her tomorrow). We arrived into Chambre d'hôte les Bouleaux Nains at 6:20, having left Saugues 8 hours earlier. Big day. Monsters.